Evora - Part 1- Cathedral and Temple

15 November 2007

Évora is a UNESCO World Heritage site. Dominating the Alentejo plain) so we have moved a bare 50 km from Vila Viçosa and Rosário) this walled city possesses an amazing beauty that has been renewed over time and through history.

Seen from afar, the unique outline of the city is dominated by the imposing cathedral.

From the top of Santa Maria Cathedral the eye is at first drawn to the most distant features on the horizon, then moves closer in to the farms,

convents, churches and suburbs which surround the city.

From the main square featuring the 17^th century church of Senhor Jesus da Pobreza (Poverty) built in the 1730s and featuring a high interior, we

leave the openness of the square to meander up this narrow street to the cathedral with its wonderful spires.

The location of the original cathedral is not known. This one was begun by Dom Duranda Pais, bishop from 1267 to 1283. It is an imposing structure built with 3 naves in the shape of the Latin cross (a “t” shape). The style of architecture is described as transition Roman-Gothic. Dedicated to Santa Maria, the cathedral was consecrated in 1308.

The cathedral played an important role in much of the history and culture of Portugal. It is believed that the flags of Vasco da Gama’s fleet, bound for the orient, were blessed in the first presbytery of the Cathedral in 1497. (To place this date in context, think of that old rhyme - “In 1492, Columbus sailed the ocean blue”, to eventually ”discover” the already inhabited Americas.) Da Gama’s trips would lead to great wealth for Portugal’s ruling classes as trade with and exploitation of India and the Orient followed. Columbus’s “discoveries” would ultimately lead to great wealth for the ruling classes of Spain, and the preponderance of Spanish from Mexico south through Central and South America – the one exception being Brazil which would become a Portuguese colony. Perhaps that will be counterbalanced as Spanish becomes one of the official languages of the United States???

The main entrance features some excellent carvings of the disciples mounted on marble columns, no doubt from the quarries at Vila Viçosa. This rendering of the Apostolate has been described as the greatest work of 14^th century Portuguese sculpture. The sculptures of the other 5 apostles are sited on the other side of the gothic arch.

Located in the higher and older town, this is the largest cathedral in Portugal, and for centuries it was an important center for pilgrims. Begun in the early 1200’s it is an imposing and massive structure which dominates the city. It was built on Roman and Gothic foundations.

The magnificent cloister (quiet place set apart for pacing and tranquil contemplation) dates from the 1300’s.

Shaped in a quadrangle, the cloister includes an enclosed garden.

A winding stairwell leads from the floor of the cloister to its roof. From that vantage point you can see virtually the entire city and surrounding countryside (see above) as well as excellent views of the upper walls of the nave and the spire over the choir.

At this time of year, with the sun at much lower angles, the photography of the exterior of buildings is a challenge. Sometimes the flood of light through openings creates an interesting spotlight effect, other times excellent backlighting of windows. But too often it is just a flood of light.

Without proper lighting and tripods, the interiors of churches are always a challenge to photograph. But this shot at least gives a sense of the majesty and magnitude of this cathedral.

Almost next door is the ruins of a Roman temple. Their proximity neatly juxtaposes two very different eras. The city’s museum dating from a much later era sits between the temple and cathedral, and is currently undergoing a major renovation. It is the former Bishop’s Palace and is sited largely on the former Roman Forum.