Monsaraz

14 November 2007

This small hilltop village of 125 souls is one of the most remarkable of Portugal. Nestled on top of a rocky high hill, the village has 360 degree panoramic views over the farmlands of the Guadiana River valley which in this area forms the boundary between Portugal and Spain. Sunsets, sunrises, high noon and all the hours in between - 360 degree views, 365 days a year.

Approached from any direction, Monsaraz dominates the landscape.

How about this campsite?

Actually we just used this space for lunch, with a balmy breeze blowing up from the river, birds singing in the tree beside us and 25 degrees Celsius. The view goes all the way to Spain and the daydreams are limitless.

And check out the onslaught of “winter” tourists. We were so overwhelmed when we saw two cars in one of the 5 parking lots that we thought we would faint from the crush of the crowds.

The 12^th and 13^th century castle, renewed in the 17^th century with powerful bastions, dominates the main street in this three street, whitewashed, sun drenched village.

Built after the reconquest of the area from the Moors in 1167, the castle overlooks a more peaceful scene today,

and provides niches for tranquil contemplation.

In the 20^th century the castle court was used for bull fights with steep rows of terraced rock seating covering 2 sides of the yard. Marie-Claire practices her paseo de morte.

The rare beauty of the setting is enhanced by the architecture and the placement of homes and buildings. Literally built on a ridge the village streets slope steeply away on both sides of the main street.

With two churches, each with its own bell tower, the lunch-time tolling was robust and magnificent.

Santa Maria da Lagoa church with a marble pillory in front, forms one side of the village plaza.

A beautiful main altar is framed by a gilded gold arch.

Meanwhile, out front, free enterprise rules the day. Being relatively isolated this village and others still attract the itinerant peddlers of yore, albeit now in a van rather than a wagon or cart. Arriving with a flourish they announce their presence with persistent honking of their horns and their own theme music over a loudspeaker. They set up their wares, a few people wander out of their houses, inspect the selections; some money changes hands and the peddler is off to the next stop,

leaving through one of the gates that will let them in and out of the walled village but is too small for our motorhome.

Even older than Monsaraz are the monoliths in this area. Created between 4400 and 2000 B.C. they are a little tricky to find. The Menhir of Outeiro is a majestic phallus, 5.6 meters high, weighing 8 tons. Found lying on the ground in 1964 it was lifted and cleaned in the late 1960s.

With a convent as backdrop, this square Cromlech has a 4 meter, 7 ton Menhir at its center and is surrounded by about 50 small monoliths, many broken at some time. It is not in its original location having been moved to avoid flooding after the construction of a dam in the region.

Each village has its own small church like this one in Outeiro, near the supposedly pagan monolith of the same name.