Vila Vicosa - Part 1

11-13 November

Rosario is found in the area known as the Alentejo. If you draw a straight line from Madrid in the middle of Spain to Lisbon on Portugal’s Atlantic coast, it will bisect the Alentejo. This is the area in which we will spend several days and we begin with Vila Viçosa, known as the Capital of Marble (and host of the annual International Marble Fair).

Looking like some medieval town in the distance, this pile of marble waste and rejects is symptomatic of the marble mining and works in the area. Its use is so common here that it is seen in everything from the palaces of dukes, and churches of all sizes and stature, to curbs, benches and sidewalks.

External marble base boards can be seen on the houses on the left of this narrow street.

The foyers in these middle class homes have marble floors and the windows and doors are framed in marble. What a variety of balconies, all with marble floors.

The head height rings for tying horses are attached to small circular pieces of marble.

It’s not clear whether this town was founded by the Carthaginians or the Romans. The first written records date to the medieval period when it received its royal charter from King Alfonso III in 1270. It has been the home of “famous” people from the 16^th century Dukes of Braganza to the 20^th century Portuguese poetess Florbela Espanca .

Vila Viçosa, although relatively small by modern standards (3 small supermarkets), historically had 7 convents and at least as many churches.

Dominating the western end of the town plaza is the 17^th century church of São João Evangelista (St. John the Evangelist). Formerly part of the Jesuit college it now serves a local parish.

The façade is impressive as a relatively simplistic Baroque style covered with local marble. It has three levels of windows, three doorways with Doric columns and is topped by two bell towers each holding 6 bells. The lack of spires disguises its role as a church. The clock was added at a much later period.

The Patron Saint’s church (Nossa Senhora da Conceição) was originally called Santa Maria do Castelo (Holy Mary within the Castle) and is located within the old town walls.

Remodelled after the great earthquake of 1755, it was further altered in the 19^th century resulting in this rather simple looking exterior. Being so close to All Saints’ Day (1 November) the cemetery was bedecked with flowers. This custom is prevalent in much of Europe and Marie-Claire’s mother, who had a flower shop in Brussels next to a cemetery, also prayed for frost before the end of October so that all the flowers in parishoners’ gardens would be finished so they would come to her shop for flowers for the graves of their family members. Marie-Claire and her brothers and sisters used to carry pots of flowers to the cemetery for customers, in return for tips. October frosts benefited the children as well as the business.

This cemetery boasts a lot of marble crypts.

In the center of town on the plaza and next to the hospital is the Espírito Santo church also known as the Misericórdia (Mercy) church. Built in the 1500s it has a renaissance doorway, a bell tower with some Moorish traits. Inside there are some excellent examples of religious art, gilt carving and decorative wall tiles.

This beautiful small chapel, formerly part of a convent, is tucked away on a side street.