Estoi

25 November 2007

Adjacent to the Ruins of Milreu is the town of Estói, a medium size town typical of the southern Algarve and like many others supporting their surrounding rural area. Its picturesque church forms one side of the main town square.

This being the 21^st century, modern celebrations of Christmas are blended with the traditional.

Cafes and commercial buildings surround the other sides of the square, while a wrecked car awaits the arrival of an ambulance team to practice emergency drills.

Noon hour sees this living town close down for lunch, while a few children enjoy the balmy weather and a break from school in another plaza.

In all the small towns of Portugal, with very narrow streets, parking space is at a premium. These noon-hour parkers were congregated in a nearby café for a “glass” and some lunch.

Some streets are so narrow and steep that they suddenly convert to stairways, creating picturesque niches that add visual diversity and interest to the urban landscape even if they do create traffic blockages. But we have to remember that these towns predate the automobile and walking was the most common form of movement within a town.

With the twentieth century and the proliferation of the internal combustion engine methods of movement begin to change. An old motorbike, that looks like it comes from the early years of the last century, takes a siesta while its owner meets with friends for a lunch drink.

The jewel of the town is being converted to a Pousada and is therefore inaccessible to us. The Paláçio do Estói, built in the 18^th century in the Italian Baroque style is romantic and charming and will make an incredible inn, a good reason to return when its conversion is completed in 2008.

Its gardens are a delight, although in need of some TLC which seems to have been forgotten during the renovations. A walkway of palms is bordered by orange trees that march upwards in terraces until the baroque façade of the palace is reached. The marble columns and vases are highlighted by blue and polychromic mosaics based on mythological themes.

Picture yourself staying in this small 18^th century palace in 2008 or 2009, perhaps in February or March, and driving down to the nearby coast of the Algarve for the restaurants and beaches, or walking to the nearby 1^st – 3^rd century ruins of Milreu. Can life get any better?