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Location: BC, Canada

Friday, March 23, 2007

La Tranche-sur-Mer

14 March 2007

Our practice of following as many secondary roads (small départementals) as possible, led us to a small village, Marans. Attracted by the ruins of a church we stopped in a large parking lot where one large multi-wheeler truck was parked. The restaurant across the road should have been a hint. But we missed it. Within about 90 seconds, the restaurant owner, wrapped in his soiled apron came running across the road gesticulating expressively, as the French can do so well. Once we understood that he wanted to save as much of the parking lot for “les routiers” (truckers) to stop for lunch and recognizing the sanctity of lunch (and dinner) for les routiers we moved to the end of the lot. Sure enough there were soon 8 multi-wheelers. In a previous trip to France, to the east of Lyon, we had awaited a fixed menu dinner with about 20 routiers in the only restaurant open on a Sunday evening along a départemental. Being a routier in Europe is a tough job. The cabs are much smaller, with very small sleeping areas and no facilities. Once off the autoroutes, they are pushing their rigs along extremely narrow roads usually with no shoulders and the cab-over construction of their trucks means there is absolutely no protection in the event of a head-on collision. Like we said, it’s a tough job, so meals and the social aspects of meals are an important event in the day of a routier. Who are we to begrudge them a parking spot for their long rigs?

Lunch completed, we explored the ruins of this church dating to the Roman era for parts of its choir and transept, and to the middle ages for the rest.

Its massive, sophisticated stone and brick work have maintained much of the structural integrity of the church over its 100 years of abandonment.

The date of the wagon alongside the church is debatable – probably the end of the 19th or early 20th century. The springs and metalwork are suggestive of this era.







Following secondary, narrow roads brought us to the most picturesque “mairie” (town hall) of this year’s trip in Saint-Benoist-sur-Mer.





It’s a long time since this Saint-Benoist was on the sea, but it did have a beautiful but simple medieval church.



Although a very solid, boxy structure it still had a high level of natural interior light.




An overnight stop at la Tranche-sur-Mer provided a quiet night’s rest. Unfortunately “les floralies” area of la Tranche was no longer being cultivated and maintained by the town so some anticipated flowers in the dunes were not to be found. Some good cycling paths filled our time.