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Thursday, March 22, 2007

Dax

9 March 2007

With higher winds forecast and steady rain, it seemed a good time to leave Biarritz. The power of the Atlantic, as seen in the last post, is tremendous. Here is another reminder.

Another example is this series of rocks being covered by successive waves.




A few days after we left two grandparents were walking with their two grandchildren along the beach at Biarritz. Both children were swept away by a large wave; one survived.

Dax, “the Prime Thermal Destination of France” was our next stop. The city dates to the Roman period and the legend attesting to the healing efficacy of its waters tells of a Roman legionnaire, posted elsewhere, throwing his rheumatic dog into the Adour river flowing through here. The dog survived his master’s departure and every day came back to bathe in the river. When the legionnaire returned he found his dog, not only still alive, but also cured of its rheumatism.

The waters are regulated by the health department as are the various treatments in the more than 15 establishments.



Dax’s cathedral is at the site of a church dating from about 400 AD. Replaced at the beginning of the 11th century by the first cathedral of Nôtre Dame, this was in turn destroyed in battles with the English in 1295 as the French attempted to retake the city. A new Gothic style cathedral was constructed in the 13th century but succumbed to dry rot in the 17th century. The current cathedral was built between 1647 and 1894 to the plans of the famous and prolific state architect, Vauban. Externally distinguished by its flying buttresses,



and its twin towers



















it boasts a fascinating remnant of its 13th century Gothic predecessor, the “Apostles’ Door”.


The flying buttresses supporting the upper wall allow lots of light into the cathedral giving it a feeling of airiness.

Its dome features a beautiful fresco.









Elsewhere in the city, a fair-sized section of wall reminds us of the Roman era.


But Dax today is a thoroughly modern city with many streets devoted to pedestrians and window shopping.