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Location: BC, Canada

Thursday, December 21, 2006

Maguelone Cathedral

19 December

Leaving Cap d’Agde we continued along the coast to the south and east. We were initially attracted to this area by what looked, on the map of France, like very large lagoons and the many inlets. We continued to skirt these along the national and departmental roads/highways, avoiding the freeways.

With numerous detours to explore small towns, to pick up baguettes and croissants and to visit a very old cathedral we travelled a grand total of 80 kilometers in 4 of 5 hours.

In one of the small towns, Vic-la-Gardiole, we found its fortified 12th century church, which had been attacked several times. With its 2 meter thick shale limestone walls it was apparently never taken.




And yes cars do drive up and down this street. We almost got our motor home wedged into a street like this near St. Léocadie Church. We extricated ourselves with an adroit 3-point turn in reverse and found another escape route.



We were very surprised to come across a flock of flamingos, since we normally associate them with a warm climate and not with nights that hover around freezing.






Following the coast with all its little eddies and backwaters we came across the 6th century Maguelone Cathedral sited on what was a small island and is now joined to the mainland by a causeway of silted sand. It served as the “seat” of the regional bishop for over a thousand years , a period of turbulence during which the cathedral was partially destroyed and rebuilt a few times, with much of what remains today dating to the 12th and 13th centuries.

The fortified nature of the cathedral is clearly evident in this picture showing part of two of its towers.





Also suggestive of the fortifications are the stairs leading to the towers and to the quarters built over the original 6th century structure to house the monks associated with the cathedral in the 13th century.









Tremendous efforts have been made to restore the cathedral and the vineyards associated with it. The society responsible for the ongoing work has established a working community of mentally challenged adults that cultivate the vineyards, raise shellfish in the estuary and provide services to communities in the area.

Wine is much less expensive in France than in Canada and we have been enjoying this liquid source of powerful antioxidants. We purchased 2 bottles of superior and 3 bottles of “table” wine for 26 Euros ($40 Can.) at the winery.



The cathedral stands amidst lush greenery of the vineyards and is surrounded by salt marshes. “Floating” in the distance is Palavas les Flots where we will be spending Christmas. If you’re looking on a small scale map, it is about 20 km. directly south of Montpellier.